How do you choose the anti-wrinkle polypeptide family?Efficacy, concentration and lyophilized powder compounding of 6 common polypeptides
The previous article talked about the blue copper peptide (GHK-Cu), and some readers asked: "What are palmitoyl tripeptide, acetylhexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9?"and copper-blue peptide, which is better? "
To be honest, this problem itself exposes a common problem in the industry - treating "polypeptides" as "an ingredient".
A polypeptide is not an ingredient.There are 60 + kinds of polypeptide raw materials included in the "Catalogue of Cosmetic Raw Materials Used (2021 Edition)", which can be divided into 5 categories according to the mechanism of action. The efficacy, effective concentration, and compatibility logic of each category are different.
Today's article explains the 6 most common anti-aging peptides - combined with the inclusion of the "Catalogue of Cosmetic Ingredients Used", the filing data of cosmetic supervision app, and the practical experience of polypeptide compounding of micropeptides in lyophilized powder formulations, to give the brand side a clear understanding of "how to choose polypeptides, how to use them, and how to avoid pitfalls".
I. First, the rules: peptides are "legal or illegal" in cosmetics
At the cosmetic regulatory level, the regulatory status of polypeptide raw materials has 3 levels:
1. Listed "Conventional Polypeptides" (Directly in the Catalogue of Cosmetic Ingredients Used) - Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl): Serial Number 03192 - Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (Biopeptide EL): Serial Number 03193 - Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Syn-Coll): Serial Number 03194 - Acetylhexapeptide-8 (Argireline, Botoxoid Peptide): Serial Number 03199 - Acetyloctapeptide-3 (Snap-8): Serial Number 03200 - Tripeptide-1 Copper (GHK-Cu, Blue Copper Peptide): Serial Number 03819 - Hexapeptide-9 (Collaxyl): Serial Number 03201 - Oligopeptide-1: Serial Number 03188 - Nineopeptide-1 (Melanozyme, Non-whitening Use): Serial Number 03203- These are all regular ingredients that "makeup number can be used directly"
2. "Innovative polypeptides" that need to be declared according to new raw materials - some large factory self-developed polypeptide derivatives (such as certain cyclic peptides, modified peptides, chimeric peptides), if they are not in the used catalog, they need to be declared according to the "New Raw Material Registration and Record Management Regulations" - The reporting cycle is generally 12-18 months
3. "Bio-peptides" of medical device raw materials - Some recombinant human-derived polypeptides (such as recombinant human-derived collagen) are managed according to category II/III medical devices and cannot be used casually in the makeup number - "chemosynthetic polypeptides" can be used in the makeup number (short amino acid sequence, high stability)
In a nutshell: Common polypeptides have legal status in makeup numbers and do not need to be declared for new ingredients.
II. The "division of labor" of the 6 common anti-wrinkle polypeptides
| Peptides | Primary efficacy | Typical Effective Concentration | Practical collocation | Regulatory inclusion |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 | Promotes type I/III collagen synthesis | 2% -5% | Blue copper peptide/recombinant collagen | 03192 |
| Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 | Promote extracellular matrix synthesis | 2% -4% | Copper blue peptide/bosaine | 03193 |
| Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 | Promote TGF-β expression (similar to TGF-β) | 1% -3% | Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 | 03194 |
| Acetylhexapeptide-8 | Inhibition of SNAP-25 (botulinum toxoid) | 2% -10% | Dipeptide/Tripeptide | 03199 |
| Acetyloctapeptide-3 | SNAP-25 Suppression (Upgraded) | 1% -5% | Acetylhexapeptide-8 | 03200 |
| Hexapeptide-9 | Collagen type IV + laminin | 1% -3% | Copper blue peptide/bosaine | 03201 |
Below, we will talk about each "practical characteristics" in different categories.
1. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) - "Collagen-Promoting Elder"
This is a polypeptide marketed by Sederma in 2000, with more than 20 years of clinical data - it can promote the synthesis of type I collagen + type III collagen + fibronectin. - Concentration: 2% -5% (low concentration is basically useless)- Effective time: 8-12 weeks of continuous use before visible firming effect - Compatibility: with blue copper peptide, recombinant collagen is a golden combination
2. Biopeptide EL + Syn-Coll
Both are "signal peptides" - mimicking TGF-β (transforming growth factor) signals that allow fibroblasts to "think" that they are young and start working overtime to synthesize collagen. - Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: 2% -4% - Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5: 1% -3% (stronger than Tripeptide-1) - Hands-on experience: Combination with Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is 30-50% stronger than single use
3. Acetylhexapeptide-8 (Argireline) - "smear botulinum toxin"
This is the most controversial polypeptide - proponents say it is a "non-invasive botulinum toxin replacement", opponents say "the data is not hard enough".But objectively speaking, its mechanism is to inhibit SNAP-25 protein (botulinum toxin also inhibits SNAP-25), so the term "botulinum toxin" is not a cavity. - Concentration: 2% -10% (5% or less is basically marketing) -Effectiveness: Improved expression lines after 4-6 weeks of continuous use -Compatibility contraindications: Separate from strong acid (fruit acid) and vitamin A alcohol
4. Acetyloctapeptide-3 (Snap-8) - "Upgraded version of acetylhexapeptide-8"
The mechanism is the same as acetylhexapeptide-8, but the amino acid sequence is longer, more stable, and works faster. - Concentration: 1% -5% (much lower than acetylhexapeptide-8) - Price: 1.5-2 times more expensive than acetylhexapeptide-8
5. Hexapeptide-9 (Collaxyl) —— "Basement Membrane Repair"
This polypeptide is specifically targeted at the basement membrane (the epidermis-dermis junction) -promoting type IV collagen + laminin + nestin synthesis. - Concentration: 1% -3% - Applicable scenarios: Sensitive muscles, pregnant and baby products, postoperative repairs - especially for people with thin skin and weak barriers - Practical experience: Hexapeptide-9 and ceramide combination, especially friendly to seborrheic dermatitis, hormonal face repair period
6. Blue copper peptide (GHK-Cu) - As detailed in the previous article
Compound King - Add a little blue copper peptide to almost all peptide formulations, and the effect can be increased by 20-30%.
III. The "golden combination" of polypeptides
A single polypeptide has limited effect. 2-3 polypeptide compounds are really able to run the "visible effect" on the product.
3 combinations of micropeptides commonly used in lyophilized powder formulations:
Option 1: Anti-firming combination - palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (3%) + palmitoyl tripeptide-5 (1.5%) + blue copper peptide (0.5mg/ pair) - Applicable: 30 + year old firming lifting, medical cosmetics post-project repair - Case in point: A brand of "polypeptide firming lyophilizing powder essence" —— Yue G Makeup Net Filing 2026XXXXXX
Option 2: Anti-wrinkle expression line combination - acetylhexapeptide-8 (5%) + acetyloctapeptide-3 (2%) + blue copper peptide (0.5mg/ pair) - Applicable: expression line, decree line, eye corner line - Case study: A brand "polypeptide anti-wrinkle drying essence" - 2026XXXXXX
Option 3: Sensitive Skin Repair Combination - Hexapeptide-9 (2%) + Blue Copper Peptide (0.5mg/ pair) + Oligopeptide-1 (1%) - Applicable: Sensitive Skin, Hormonal Face, Pregnancy and Baby Products - Case Study: A Brand of "Sensitive Skin Repair Freeze Drying Powder" —— 2026XXXXXX
IV. 3 Practical Points for Making Polypeptides into Lyophilized Powders
1. The protective agent formula should be specially designed. The polypeptide is sensitive to temperature, humidity and pH. The protective agent of the freeze-dried powder is different from that of the ordinary freeze-dried powder: - trehalose 2.5% -3% (slightly higher than that of the ordinary freeze-dried powder) - mannitol 2% - dextran 0.5% - pH control 5.5-6.5 (slightly more acidic than that of the blue copper peptide freeze-dried powder, because most polypeptides are more stable in a neutral acidic environment)
2. To calculate the compounding concentration separately, the "true concentration" of each polypeptide in the lyophilized powder is calculated according to the volume after reconstitution - for example, "acetylhexapeptide-8.5%", which is calculated according to the content of 0.05 g per 1ml of vehicle after reconstitution. - Powder + liquid ratio is generally 1: 1 to 1: 2 (0.5g powder with 0.5-1ml liquid per pair)
3. Packaging should be strictly protected from lightThe polypeptide will slowly degrade in light, and the brown vial + aluminum-plastic cap is standard. - Better protection with nitrogen (prevents oxidation)
5. 3 practical suggestions for brands to choose peptide products
1. Look at the actual concentration of polypeptide in the formula table. The raw material price of polypeptide is not low (800-3000 yuan/g of blue copper peptide, 8 500-1500 yuan/g of acetylhexapeptide). If the product advertises "polypeptide anti-wrinkle", but the polypeptide in the formula table ranks behind the preservative, it is basically a marketing gimmick.
2. The "all or nothing" principle of polypeptide compounding selects either the single polypeptide (high concentration) or the polypeptide compounding (each with a clear concentration). - The word "polypeptide" is seen but only "palmitoyl XXX" on the recipe sheet, mostly in low concentrations.
3. Freeze-dried powder morphology > Serum morphology is the same as the blue copper peptide. The active retention rate of the polypeptide can reach more than 90% (24 months to accelerate stability), and the serum may drop below 70% in 6-12 months.
- At the same price, the actual active ingredient content of the lyophilized powder is much higher than that of the serum.
Finally, to be honest: polypeptides are a category of ingredients in efficacy skin care that have "relatively high cost performance, low compliance risk, and the most obvious user perception".But the premise is to select pairs, compound pairs, and form pairs.
If you would like to learn more about the filing/registration/foundry details of peptide freeze-drying powders, or if you would like to see examples of peptides made by micropeptides + recombinant collagen, peptides + blue copper peptides, peptides + bosaine, you can contact the engineering team of Hunan Yi 'an Biological/Micropeptide Group directly.
