On August 19, 2026, the State Drug Administration issued an announcement to make the fifth dynamic adjustment to the Catalogue of Cosmetic Raw Materials Used.Azelaic acid monoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cetyl diglyceride tris (trimethylsiloxy) silicylethyl polydimethylsiloxane, β-nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN), psoralen 4 new cosmetic raw materials, safety monitoring period of 3 years, after evaluation in line with the relevant provisions of the "Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics", officially included in the "Catalogue of Cosmetics Raw Materials Used" II.
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According to the announcement of the State Food and Drug Administration, after this adjustment, the number of raw materials included in the Catalogue of Cosmetic Raw Materials Used II increased to 10.This is the fifth adjustment since the establishment of the dynamic adjustment mechanism in June 2025, and has been completed three times in 2026.
1. Technical characteristics and application directions of 4 new raw materials
beta-nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN), catalog number 08980, INCI name Nicotinamide MONONUCLEOTIDE, EC number 214-136-5, commonly used for skin protectants, moisturizers, anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants.NMN is a direct precursor to the human coenzyme nad (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and is involved in cellular energy metabolism and DNA repair processes.In cosmetics applications, NMN has 14 cumulative filing numbers, which is the new raw material for cosmetics with the largest number of filings. Some filing technical requirements indicate that the maximum allowable concentration of resident products is ≤ 3%.The material has strong moisture absorption, easy oxidative degradation in light, high temperature and alkaline environment, and has high requirements for formulation stability and production process.
Psoralen, catalog number 09000, Inci name BAKUCHIOL, CAS number 10309-37-2, commonly used for skin protectants, skin conditioners, moisturizers, antioxidants.Psoralea corylifolia is derived from the legume Psoralea corylifolia seed and is an isoprene phenoterpenoid.A double-blind controlled trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2018 showed that 0.5% psoralen twice daily and 0.5% retinol once daily were equally effective in improving wrinkles and pigmentation after 12 weeks of use, but there were significantly fewer adverse reactions such as skin desquamation and tingling in the psoralen group.Psoralen has no photosensitivity and can be used during the day and evening. Some filing technologies require a maximum allowable concentration of 2%, and the recommended amount is 0.1% ~ 2%.
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Azelaic acid monoamidopropyl dimethylamine, catalog number 09017, Inci name AZELAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYL amine, filing number 20230002, commonly used for skin protection.The raw material is an azelaic acid derivative developed by Xinyu Biotechnology Corum in Taiwan under the trade name Epi-On, which protects the skin barrier through epigenetic regulation.In vitro and human tests show that 2% ~ 4% concentration can promote thickening of the stratum corneum, accelerate cell migration and growth factor secretion, and has potential application in skin repair after laser surgery.
Cetyl diglycerol tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl polydimethylsiloxane, catalog number 08979, Inci name Cetyl diglyceryl tris (TRIMETHYLSILOXY) SILYLETHYL dimethicone, CAS number 1466529-58-7, commonly used as an emulsifier.The raw material is Dow Chemical Dowsil ES-5600 silicone emulsifier, suitable for peg-free water-in-oil and silicone water-in-oil formulations, cold formulations, with excellent powder dispersion and refreshing skin, suitable for skin care, makeup, sunscreen and other products.
II. From "New Raw Material Filing" to "Used Catalog": Changes in Compliance Path
According to Article 14 of the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics, within 3 years after the new cosmetic raw materials registered or filed are put into use, the registrant or the filer shall report on the use and safety every year.If there is no safety problem after 3 years, it shall be included in the catalogue of used cosmetic raw materials.After being included in the catalogue, the company uses these raw materials to produce ordinary cosmetics, and submits the formula according to the ordinary cosmetics filing process. There is no need to separately apply for new raw materials for filing.
The direct impact of this change on the brand side is threefold: First, the product launch cycle is shortened, and it is no longer subject to the authorization and filing cycle of the new raw material filer; second, the supply chain selection is more diversified, and it can be directly purchased from the foundries that have established raw material supply channels; third, the formula innovation space is opened, and the brand can develop differentiated products based on these raw materials that have completed safety monitoring.
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However, it should be noted that the raw material "turning positive" does not mean that it can be used at will.The technical requirements such as the purpose of use, scope of application and maximum allowable concentration determined at the time of filing of each raw material are still valid, and the company shall comply with these restrictions when using the formula, and complete the product safety assessment in accordance with the Technical Guidelines for Cosmetic Safety Assessment.
3. Cosmetics Synergy: Micropeptide Group's full chain processing and branding capabilities
The product window period for the release of new raw materials has put forward higher requirements for the comprehensive service capabilities of foundries.Micropeptide Group has mature OEM/ODM processing and branding capabilities in both the makeup and mechanical size sections, providing brand customers with full process services from raw material selection to product launch.
In the makeup number section, Guangdong Micropeptide Biotechnology Co., Ltd. has more than ten years of experience in OEM/ODM foundry of cosmetics, more than 800 cooperative brands, more than 100 products have been filed for listing, and more than 70 technical achievements have been accumulated. It has passed ISO22716 and GMPC double certification in the United States.Three cosmetic brand production bases operate together. The total production area exceeds 300,000 square meters. 65 production lines cover various dosage forms such as creams, emulsions, masks, and freeze-dried powders. 13 freeze-drying equipment support a daily production capacity of 1 million pairs of freeze-dried powders, and a daily production capacity of 1 million masks.The R&D team has carried out formulation pre-research and stability verification on newly listed raw materials such as NMN and psoralen, which can support the brand to quickly start the development of anti-wrinkle essence, antioxidant cream, barrier repair milk and other categories.
In the mechanical size section, Hunan Micropeptide Biomedical Co., Ltd., as a second-class medical device manufacturer, holds a medical device production license and has passed ISO13485 medical device quality management system certification. It has the full process capability from formulation development to registration application in the fields of recombinant collagen dressings and medical skin care products.For brand customers who want to simultaneously lay out makeup font size efficacy skin care and mechanical font size medical aesthetic repair, micropeptides can provide a coordinated formula conversion scheme for cosmetics, and the same core active ingredient can be developed and produced under different regulatory paths.
Zhaoqing 4.0 The smart factory will be officially put into operation on September 2. The new factory is positioned as a highly intelligent digital factory. The entire process from raw material warehousing to warehousing and logistics is integrated into a digital management system. The 100,000-level clean workshop is equipped with an intelligent production line and an automated warehousing system to support flexible production switching from 3,000 test orders to 300,000 explosive orders.At the same time, Micropeptide has established in-depth cooperation with international top raw material giants, with a team of experts providing technical empowerment throughout the process, and intervening in raw material selection and efficacy verification from the formulation design stage.
Brand customers who want to develop products based on new raw materials such as NMN and psoralen, or understand the cosmetics collaborative foundry solution, can contact us through the official channels of Micropeptide Group for inquiries.
FAQs
Q: After NMN and psoralen are included in the catalogue of used raw materials, does the brand still need to record new raw materials?
A: No.According to the announcement of the State Food and Drug Administration on August 19, 2026, the safety monitoring period of β-nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) and psoralen has reached 3 years, and it has been officially included in the Catalogue of Cosmetic Raw Materials Used II.Enterprises can directly use it within the prescribed purpose of use and safe dosage, and submit the formula according to the ordinary cosmetics filing process, without separately applying for new raw materials for filing.
Q: What is the maximum allowable concentration of NMN in cosmetics?
A: According to some NMN new raw material filing technical requirements, the maximum allowable concentration of resident products is ≤ 3%. There may be differences in the technical requirements of different filing numbers. Specifically, the notes in the Catalogue of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials and the quality specifications of raw materials shall prevail.NMN is sensitive to light, high temperatures and alkaline environments, and a stable antioxidant protection system needs to be established in the formulation.
Q: Can psoralen replace retinol?
A: Psoralen is referred to by the industry as "phytoretinol".In a double-blind controlled trial in 2018, 0.5% psoralen was compared with 0.After 12 weeks of 5% retinol use, the effect was comparable in improving wrinkles and pigmentation, and the skin irritation response was lighter and less photosensitive in the psoralen group.However, the molecular structure of the two is different, and the mechanism of action is not exactly the same. The formula should be selected according to the product positioning and the target population.Some filing technical requirements indicate the maximum allowable concentration of psoralen 2%.
Q: Can micropeptides be used for makeup and mechanical font sizes at the same time?
A: Yes. Micropeptide Group's Guangdong Micropeptide Biotechnology Co., Ltd. is responsible for makeup OEM/ODM, has 3 makeup production bases, and has passed ISO22716 and US GMPC certification; Hunan Micropeptide Biopharmaceutical Co., Ltd., as a Class II medical device manufacturer, holds a medical device production license, and has passed ISO13485 certification.Brand customers can complete the collaborative development and production of makeup number efficacy skin care and mechanical brand medical aesthetic repair products within the same group system.
